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Oh, this was my kind of school. Instead of pencils, we had spatulas. Instead of blackboards, we had black woks. Instead of notebooks, noodles. We graduated magna cum stuffed. My wife, Janice, and I love to cook. But somehow one is not in the proper frame of mind to execute tropical dishes when one must slog through snowbanks to reach class. In Chiang Mai we had the right setting.
This old northern Thai city has many enticements: a cuisine with such rich, complex spices that a seemingly simple noodle dish becomes a seminar in contrasting flavors; ancient Buddhist temples whose golden adornments communicate sensuousness along with their spirituality; people so welcoming that jaded visitors quickly set aside their skepticism.
And then there are the prices. In light of all of its cultural attractions, it seems crass to say so, but Chiang Mai is a bargain. Luxurious hotel rooms are the price of a Motel 6 in the U. And the dirty clothes you left with the family-operated laundry in the morning will be ready that evening--washed, dried, ironed and folded--for 30 baht, about 70 cents. Janice and I came to Chiang Mai after discovering that Bangkok was just too much city for us. The majesty of its temples is almost greater than the human brain can process.
But the city is so crowded, so busy, so unwalkable. Chiang Mai is about miles northwest, in the little lobe of land squeezed between Myanmar and Laos--and it feels even farther away.
Although its control subsequently passed back and forth between Thais and Burmese, it became a regional capital and the center of commerce and Buddhist culture. Clearly modern, the city nonetheless reveres its ancient treasures. No high-rise construction is permitted near temples, and the old moat has been cleaned up and improved with fountains that keep the water moving.